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Timeless Pacific Coast Highway California

Kate Mpofu • May 05, 2024

California's Pacific Coast Highway NEVER Goes Out of Fashion...Here's Why.

California has long been, and remains, one of the top self drive holidays to do in the States, or perhaps even the World. So off I went and booked a hire car (brand new white Mustang arrived at the airport) and explored Pacific Coast Highway for myself, from North to South.

Arriving into San Francisco after a long flight, I flaked out at an airport motel and tried to recuperate from the jet lag. I have to admit, I find it so much harder going West and it took me several days to actually sleep through the night. If any city can keep you entertained and wide awake it's San Fran, with an uber cool art scene and funky bars and clubs. It's a great “walkable” city and as with any city, I just love getting lost. You see so much more. So I got lost twice, walked for miles but saw parts of the city probably no tourist does. Union Square is fascinating, and I sat in the cafe, drank coffee (skinny flat white, I was even down with the lingo) and just people watched. Homeless people ranted and raved, tourists were snap happy with cameras and designer clad Americans went about their lives and I was in holiday heaven absorbing it all. From there I walked to China Town, yet more crazy hustle and bustle and weird and wonderful “gifts” for sale, all the way down to Fisherman's Wharf with it's stunning views over Alcatraz. I didn't have nearly enough time to get the boat over, which was actually very busy anyway and I should have booked, which I'm disappointed about to this day. Don't make my mistake – book before you go! And of course, no city tour is complete without a hop on, hop off bus tour which I took out to Golden Gate Bridge and past the city's parks and back around all the places I had just walked from. My approach to city tours is to not have a plan; see where you end up. It' so much more exciting.
Mustang PCH

After a whistle stop tour of San Fran, off I drove down to Monterey and Carmel: gorgeous little quaint seaside towns that are well worth a visit and stop off on the journey South (or North, depending on where you're driving from!) About 15 minutes drive from Carmel town is Carmel Valley Ranch, a large luxury gated resort with suites looking out over the lush green valley and activities in abundance. They get incredibly busy during peak summer months with American families taking up the tennis, kids club, swimming pools, treks and other great activities all organised with families in mind. I loved the evening s'mores by the fire after dinner and the staff are great at getting the kids involved and letting parents have some down time. It's a fantastic option for couples or families making the drive down the coast and the perfect place to stop for a day or two.

 

Onwards the following day took me through Pismo Beach, Big Sur and eventually stopping in Santa Barbara at Four Seasons The Biltmore. For those used to holidaying in the States you will know that they are fascinated by the old buildings and architecture we have in the UK but this property has it's own heritage and has been converted into a stunning resort directly in front of Butterfly Beach. My room had a wrap around balcony looking right out to sea and over towards the beach club which is free for hotel guests to use. Cottages behind the main building are perfect for travelling families too with lots of private garden space, and some can connect with another room for an accompanying nanny if preferred. Santa Barbara town is a very short drive away and is genuinely one of the prettiest I have seen outside of Spain or Italy. It has Italian style architecture and bespoke little stores, plus great eateries as well as international department stores and I could have happily stayed another night or two.  

Santa Barbara

I would say unfortunately, I headed off the next day but the following morning took me on a coffee fuelled drive further down the coast to Santa Monica to stay at the infamous, Shutters on the Beach. The reputation of this hotel goes before it and as such, it's long been on my list of places to stay. Perfectly positioned on Santa Monica beach, just along from Pier 39 and boasting boardwalk cafes and restaurants. This hotel is grand and imposing, whilst being comforting and cosy on the inside. Rooms are designed with warmth and a “home from home” beach house vibe, with some looking directly out to see and others overlooking the sidewalks. Sun drenched days on the beach are followed by lively nights in Santa Monica and although it's a very short drive from LA, it's worth staying out on the beach for an alternative LA experience before heading downtown.

 

There are so many choices of hotels to choose from in LA itself that it can become confusing but if you are a first timer, Beverly Wilshire is a prime choice. The name is world renowned but they haven't rested on their laurels. Service, product and position is impeccable and although hotels of this calibre can be pretentious at times, Beverly Wilshire couldn't be friendlier or more welcoming. I have to be honest and say that other people had given me varying advice about LA: some loved the city and some would never go back. I genuinely think a lot of the opinion you have is due to where you stay. Don't go downtown in you're new to LA. As with any downtown, it can be intimidating. Hollywood, as glizty and exciting as it is, would also not be for me. You can go and visit during the day and spend hours watching the world go by, but you don't need to stay there. Beverly Wilshire is at the bottom of Rodeo Drive, walking distance to restaurants and cafes and accessible to the rest of the city too. LA is vast: you need a car or to take a tour so make sure you need to choose your base carefully. I personally loved LA, in fact it was one of the highlights of my trip. There is something special and exciting and I will definitely be going back.

 

After a couple of days exploring all that LA has to offer – including Rodeo Drive too many times to mention – I headed South once again via Newport Beach for a quick spot of lunch. There are so many great beaches within an hour of LA: Huntington, Laguna, Newport to name but a few, and all offer that chilled out American seaside vibe which is the perfect contrast after being in such a vast city. I wanted to end in San Diego but found an absolute gem of a resort about 30 mins before arriving in San Diego: Rancho Valencia.

Rodeo Drive

Rancho Valencia is a sprawling gates resort in the hills just an hour's drive from the beaches in an area called Rancho Sante Fe. It has so much to offer, you could spend far more than the 2 nights that I did. First, it's an internationally renowned tennis resort. I did take a lesson, having never been a sports enthusiast and I even left the court thinking I could be a pro which is entirely down to the skills of the instructor, I have since discovered! The resort had been recently renovated when I visited, and by a designer who clearly loved the resort. The original casitas which spread throughout the resort (you really need a car or hire a buggy) haven't been altered so original red tinged brickwork with established gardens hide any evidence of renovation. Inside the casitas is another story. Every single mod con including state of the art coffee machines, fire places, surround sound TV's with DVDs, lighting...you name it, it's got it. The space is endless but the two real treats:

1. The outdoor garden complete with fire for your own private s'mores; plunge pool jacuzzi and yet more space, completely enclosed by the casita walls offering privacy and romance in abundance, and

2. The bathroom is out of this world. The size yet again impresses, with separate bath, separate walk in show, his and hers sinks and even then there is space to have a party in there! The real treat sounds ludicrous, but it's the toilet. I've never been excited about a toilet, I promise you this isn't a fetish. But when you walk in the cubicle and the seat goes up automatically, to have puffs of air freshener go off whilst sitting, and remote control options for oscillating, front, rear and even a drying option was just ridiculous. Did I mention the warmed seat?

The resort has stunning restaurants, a great bar for winding down in the evening and being just 30 mins outside of San Diego means the city is there if you want it.

 

At this point, I was certain the trip couldn't get any better, but when I jetted off from San Diego to Los Cabos a couple of days later, I discovered that there is another resort to love just as much.

 

Cabo has become a mecca for the stars and celebrities looking for some sun and is so easily combined with California. It has a taste of true Mexico, almost from a film set and of course with the influx of tourists are the vast choice of apartments and hotels to choose from. I discovered before heading out there that the Cabo Corridor is where most of the nightlife was found and as I was looking for more of a relaxing end to my holiday, I opted for Cabo San Lucas: slightly further south, perched on the tip of the Baja peninsula - Capella Pedregal.

 

Capella are becoming a world class brand of hotels worldwide for their service and “tailored” experience: no check in or check out times because your holiday should be on your time; a personal assistance contacts you two weeks prior to arrival to organise any last minute extras for your stay and of course the personal service from all staff that you would expect in any luxury hotel.

 

Driving just out of the town and heading towards a mountain side, you discover a lantern-lit tunnel etched out of the mountain with a view at the other end that could have been painted on: crystal blue water, clear blue skies and an attentive welcoming committee. This is the grand entrance to Capella Pedregal. Every single room is ocean facing and has an infinity plunge pool on the terrace looking straight out to see. During out winter months it's a prime location for whale watching and as such, binoculars or telescopes are provided in every room. Mexican appetisers are provided in the room on arrival with tortilla chips and dips, cerviche (delicious!) and of course, Mexican beer. A bottle of tequila is even provided in the room for your stay. I was incredibly lucky and upgraded on arrival to a two bedroom ocean view suite that had more space than I knew what to do with, infact I only used one wing; a large lap pool with access directly to the beach, 3 separate sun terraces and my own waiter who came from the main bar every half an hour to bring skewered fruit, nibbles and any drinks my heart desired.

For food lovers, cuisine is exquisite in all restaurants but noted in every good guide book worldwide, and rightly so, is El Farallon. Carved into the cliff and candle lit each evening; this is a sea food restaurant where you choose your fish and pay by weight, with a choice of starters and sides. Truly one of the most romantic settings I have ever seen and outside guests can book. In fact, even as a guest it's worth booking as it's so popular and you absolutely don't want to miss out!

The only down side was that I only had two nights before heading back to the airport and you could easily spend 7 nights or more in this heavenly retreat by the sea.

 

Whether you're going to California or any other major US city, Cabo is accessible by numerous flights so can easily be added on and offers an authentic alternative to the American beach resorts which can be very crowded, especially in summer months.

 

Cabo San Lucas

To book your own US self drive adventure, contact Kate via email on info@worldwidetravelsolutions.co.uk


Kate x

By Kate Mpofu 14 May, 2024
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By Kate Mpofu 05 May, 2024
Thailand and Vietnam sandwich Cambodia to make up part of the Indochina region, and it provides the perfect opportunity for adventurers to see all three countries via small group or independent tours, in this instance with Explore. The Far East has always been a firm favourite for me and this trip gave me the opportunity to travel solo and join a group of like minded travellers, giving the safety and security of group travel to a lone female but still independent enough to allow me to do as I pleased when I chose to do so. Flying into Bangkok, we spent just 1 night in this vast, sprawling city. It wasn't nearly enough. With so much to see and do in Bangkok, we barely scratched the surface and I didn't even make it to any shopping centres or markets, however I did stumble across the deep friend crickets, scorpions and spiders which I was eager to try. The vendor seemed to insist on selling me 5 of the little critters. I wanted a taste, an experiment – not a whole meal! - but he obviously had a great trade as he refused to sell me anything less so I lost out on the taste experience which I've since decided wasn't such a great tragedy. It was just the very next morning that we boarded a bus to head through Thailand and across the border into Cambodia. It was an early start and as much as I wanted to sleep, I found just travelling through the Thai countryside and seeing the local villages, towns and people going about their daily lies so fascinating, I didn't get a wink. It really is such a great way to see a country, just sitting back and observing the locals and the more rural areas. After clearing the border traffic in Cambodia, we headed straight for Siem Reap to our B&B for the next 2 nights. Local accommodation in the heart of a community is an Explore speciality. I spent the afternoon exploring the town itself and found the aptly named “Bar Street.” When you imagine the last thing you would expect to find in Siem Reap that is probably it, but that evening we all went out for food and 50p per pint of local beer and lively nightlife enticed so much so that I didn't leave until the very early hours of the morning. It could have been an 18-30 resort! After very little sleep, we did have the early morning rise to get to Angkor Wat. I will admit that it gets very crowded and you do need to push and shove a little to get a good spot but our tour guide was fantastic and told us exactly where we needed to be. No-one could be disappointed with the dark morning sky when it starts turning pink, then orange and then tinged with blue – right over the top of the temples – and giving photo opportunities you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else in the world. I had hundreds of photos, every time thinking I had the perfect snap; only to take another a couple of minutes later because I thought the sky looked even more spectacular....and so on. Following the exhilarating morning treat, we spent the whole day exploring the ruins and temples scattered all amongst Angkor Wat. I had no idea that there are literally hundreds of ruins and you only really have time to see 2 or 3 properly, but by which time, in the scorching heat and after a little rest, it was almost time for sunset. The option to take an elephant ride to the top of a ruin to watch the sunset was there but we decided to hike up and after quite a climb (and probably infringing every health and safety precaution known to man), we were at the top and sat and watched a sunset to rival it's former sunrise. The vivid colours of the sky and the ruins in the distance are stunning.
By Kate Mpofu 05 May, 2024
There are a number of great options of where to safari in Tanzania: NgoroNgoro crater and the Serengeti being two of the most popular, but the Selous area is coming into it's own due to the authentic experience on offer. The Selous is the slightly lesser known area with far fewer tourists heading to the area. Vast, barren land covering the Selous game reserve covers an an area around the size of a small country like Belgium! This makes it ideal for an authentic safari. You may not know in advance where the lion, leopard or elephant are when you set off on a game drive but when you do find it, it's just you and the game. Some safaris are such busy reserves that you can have a number of other jeeps watching the same game as you, a sure reminder that you are on the tourist trail. For me, Selous was special because what we saw was unique to us. Dar as Salaam is the main gateway to Tanzania so onward travel is by light aircraft to a local airstrip in the Selous. Most of the major camps have their own “airstrips.” I use the term loosely as this is essentially a small area of reasonably flat land that is cleared from trees and grasses and really gives a wild, outback welcome to your first camp. On our first day, as we were exploring camps, we went to see Sands River camp en route to our final destination. Sands River is one of the more famous camps in the Selous and has a prime position set in wooden tents with views over the river and as a result, offers perfect game viewing opportunities. Every item does need to be packed away in secure boxes which are provided in the rooms so curious monkeys can't treat themselves to your treasured sunglasses or see what brushing teeth is all about. Monkeys, elephant and hippo regularly make their way past the stilted tents and the food and wine served with meals are simply delicious. Attentive service and friendly, knowledgeable guides are on hand for every desire you so wish. We left by 4 x4 jeep through off road terrain, stumbling across giraffe, wild dog, and impala by the dozen, until we reached Selous Safari Camp (now known as Siwandu after so many camps in the area used the name “Selous Safari”): our first overnight stay. With any safari experience, it should always be accepted that game will go where they want, when they want so nothing is ever guaranteed with regards sightings but for us, we saw so much game at this camp. Just 12 tents are pitched around Lake Nzerakera , again offering excellent game viewings due to the animals inevitably needing to find water during sunrise and sunset. Tents are as luxurious as you would expect in this standard of camp, and bear no resemblance to what we would consider a tent. Large rooms, separate bathrooms with outdoor and indoor showers, a luxurious oversized double bed with tasteful furniture. They really do have it all and such friendly staff escorting you wherever you wish to go. Wild dog seemed to be ten a penny; so many that we became uninterested when we found more until our guide told us how lucky we were to have found so many! Game drives in the afternoon allowed us to find giraffe, herds of zebra and literally hundreds of hartibeest and wildebeest. Such a treat. An evening on a boat cruise at sunset allowed us to enjoy sundowner cocktails and discover just how many hippo and crocs lay beneath the boat as we cruised around, finally finding a pride of 11 lion resting by the banks of the river. I'm not sure whether finding the pride of lion or the spectacular sunset was more photograph worthy. What a choice. Our next stop was at Amara Selous, however we headed via Beho Beho camp which was up in the hills and provided us with the opportunity to see the area from a different perspective. Game viewing is always more guaranteed when you stay by water, however Beho Beho, being perched at the top of a hill, allows you to look down upon the trees, watering holes and grasses and spotting game from this level is such a thrill. You feel that you have found something that no one else can see and although we weren't lucky enough to spot him, a leopard chasing it's kill was observed just 2 days before our arrival and guests were clearly still enthralled by it. Beho Beho is at the top of it's game in standards, and feels incredibly relaxed and luxurious in it's ambience. A “loo with a view” really must be seen to be believed but if you use it, prepare to take a while to emerge. For those that can't wait, pictures are supplied! Arriving at Amara Selous was quite a drive for us, but clients would usually arrive by light aircraft unless staying close by already. Amara camp is relatively new, having only been there around 6 years and the area was formerly a hunting area. Incredibly sad that this still happens but it will take a long time to be completely abolished. The camps whole heartedly support abolishing the hunting business and progress has been made, no more so than by Peter and Anita who run the camp with passion, experience and friendliness. Again, based by the water, this time Ruaha river, providing activities for non-game times such as fishing, star gazing and photography. Peter is a particularly keen photographer and happy to help any amateur (myself included) take a memorable picture. My highlights here were many: Gloria the Hippo lazing across the path to our tent forcing us to go around back for entry, our fishing trip on the banks of the river, and one particular game drive in which we thought our driver had gotten lost after driving around in circles for a while, before we eventually saw what he was looking for: a herd of elephant with their young bathing and frolicking in the water. A very special moment. Our final dinner was a surprise bush dinner and yet again, every whim was catered for with stunning food served by exquisite chefs with lights lit around the clearing and an armed guide just in case a lion or two decided they wanted to say hello. Light pollution is almost non existent and the sky lights up with stars, satellites, planets, meteors crossing the night sky and beauty to bring a tear to anyone's eye. The following morning we headed to Zanzibar to relax for a few days before heading home. Zanzibar , although officially being an Indian Ocean island, is a far cry from it's popular cousins of Mauritius and the Maldives due to it's African dominance. Rustic and authentic with a laid back ambience and beach based accommodation ranging from backpacker style beach shacks to genuine 5 star luxury hotels, there really is something for you no matter what you're looking for. I travelled around the island staying at some of the best luxury hotels on offer but it should be noted that access to even the very best luxury resorts , are inevitably via some gravel “roads” and local villages. I personally found this fascinating to see African island life, the island really has it's own heartbeat, and the hotels often buy their fresh produce from the local villages and employ local people to help tourism be sustainable for the inhabitants of the island. Service standards, whilst excellent throughout, are distinctly different to the Maldives or Mauritius who have seen tourists flock to their islands for many more years than Zanzibar and are as such, far more polished. Our first stop was to The Residence on the South West Coast. The Residence now have 4 properties worldwide including this one and all are stunning in their colonial elegant décor and high standard of furnishings. Set right on the beach and with bicycles provided, the resort feels almost like a golf resort with clean pathways leading through meandering gardens and with low rise accommodation spread over the grounds. The four poster over sized double bed with draping mosquito nets and a view straight out to the sea is the first thing you see walking into the room. Service is probably the best we experienced anywhere on the island which is explained by the staff having been training largely by their Mauritian sister property. In the early morning you wake to find locals villagers and fisherman on the beach digging up the sand. Inquisitive, I asked a member of staff wheat was happening and he politely explained that they come to dig for worms for bait. They are very shy and private people (particularly the women being a largely Muslim island), extremely non-intrusive and if anything, it brought yet another dimension to the stay. I should explain that many hotels in Zanzibar claim to have a private beach: in fact none of them do. It is not allowed to “own” a beach in Zanzibar so whilst some hotels may be so far remote for villagers to reach their beach, it still is not private and if locals do come along to fish or to dig for their worms they are perfectly welcome to do so. After a delightful stay at The Residence (and a wondrous massage) we moved onwards to Essque Zalu : an impressive, formidable structure boasting the highest roof in Zanzibar and set right on the sea. Essque Zalu is more modern, with an art gallery café set in the roof of the reception area, and cleverly designed swimming pool looking out to sea, leading to a board walk jutting out to sea which is where we were led for lunch. A stunning banquet ensued and in all honesty, I didn't even feel hungry but it would be a sin to turn down such a feast. The sun made the sea twinkle it's turquoise eyes at us and as the wine flowed, I fell a little bit in love with the resort. A very beautiful and modern hotel with just enough African touches to remain in tune with it's heritage. Despite the hotel being set on the sea front , it is a rocky drop down to the ocean and the beach which belongs to be hotel is a short drive away, reached by the hotel's complimentary shuttle service, although I'm not sure I would have felt the need to go there given how gorgeous the pool was. Onwards to our final stop at Baraza which raised the bar yet again: a grand, almost Middle Eastern style hotel with lanterns lighting up the pathways in the evening, large pots of cardomom seeds and cinnamon cloves in the reception wafting around scents that can barely be described. It is another luxury resort, set in single story villas and the rooms are exquisite. A low rise day bed as well as king beds and huge bathrooms including outdoor showers are encased in each villas, some with private plunge pool and large open terraces giving garden or ocean front views. The Ottomans have a large influence on the island from the days when they used to pass through for trade and it is their influence that inspired the design of Baraza, and thankfully so as the result is stunning. The French are already flying to Zanzibar as a stand alone destination for a 7 to 14 night holiday and the British market as yet doesn't seem to have realised just how special this island is and deserves a longer stay, so although adding onto any safari destination in Africa is incredibly easy and works as a great twin centre, it could easily be considered as a single centre in it's own right. Get in touch with Kate on info@worldwidetravelsolutions.co.uk for more information or to book your own bucket-list safari.
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